Under the Tuscan Sun (and moon)

Under the Tuscan Sun

Last week we spent a few days in the region of Siena in Tuscany. As we were driving from place to place the scenery kept unfolding itself as if we were going through an art gallery, looking at one canvas after another of beautiful landscapes.

Under the Tuscan Moon

Our first nights were spent in a bed and breakfast in the Castel Spedaletto in the Val d'Orcia. It was built in the 12th century as a hospice for travellers and pilgrims along the Via Francigena, the road from Canterbury to Rome.
Our night in Siena was spent in Il Chiostro Del Carmine, a hotel that was restored from a 14th century Carmelite Monastery.

Medieval Meal in Siena

In Siena we treated ourselves to a Medieval dinner at the Ristorante Gallo Nero, located somewhere to the right of the tower, in the center of the picture above.

The meal started with some delicious breads, an appetizer wine spritzer, and a plate with fagottino ripieno di ricotta e verdure (a pasta pillow stuffed with ricotta and vegetables), a torta di ceci al cacio e pepe (chick pea pie), a torta di cipolle (onion pie) and orzo e porcini (a salad of barley and mushrooms).

Next came a delicious sopa di piselli (pea soup)

served with plenty of croutons.

This was followed by anatra in agrodolce (duck in a sweet and sour sauce) served with oven roasted carrots, fennel and beans. The plate was completed with two dumplings and dusted with cinnamon.

The desert was a tasty prune and raisin pie drizzled with honey.

A hearty Chianti wine

accompanied the meal.

The baby at the next table was given an abacus to keep him entertained while his family enjoyed their meal.

Monteriggioni

Before starting our trip home to Rome after visiting Siena we made a small "birdwalk" to Monteriggioni. It is a small, but wonderfully preserved medieval fortification built in 1203 by the Sienese to defend their northern border against their Florentine enemies.

From the road you first see the 14 towers inserted in the ring of walls.

Dante mentions 14 towers in his Inferno, describing the towers as giants surrounding hell's abyss. We saw the quotation carved on a plaque inside the gate.


Inside the walls are just a couple dozen houses, a hotel, a church, and a few restaurants around the piazza in front of the church. The church was dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta sometime before 1235.

The crucifix in the church was carved by an anonymous Florentine in the early 17th century. It is made of different pieces of wood for the arms, head and torso, fitted together and nailed, and then pained in oil. During a restoration in 1998 there was an unexpected discovery. Inside the head, behind the face of Christ, an inscription was found written in ink by the unknown artist: "Dear Jesus, into your holy arms I entrust my soul."

Note about "birdwalking" : Most people travel in a straight path to get from one location to another. I often find myself "birdwalking" as I go from one place to the next, zig-zagging back and forth, observing what is around me, much in the same way a bird goes about in a zig-zag way, looking for food.