Lenten Journey: Week 1 - Esquelino

My Lenten Journey has brought me to a “gritty” neighborhood on the Esquiline Hill, the largest of the seven hills of Ancient Rome. In Imperial times this part of the hill was used for dumping garbage and burial pits for the poor. On the opposite side of the hill, the Emperor Nero built his Domus Aurea, the Golden House. When I tried to find out the origin of the name of the hill, I discovered that in the early years of Rome the Capitol, Palitine and Caelian hills were the most populated areas of the city and the inhabitants were called “inquilini, in-towners”. People who lived in the external regions of the city were called “exquilini, suburbanites”.

My destination was the church of Santa Bibiana. Gian Lorenzo Bernini was 23 years old and living in this neighborhood when Pope Urban VIII gave him his first commission, the reconstruction of the 5th century church on this site.
I was not sure that I would find the church open as I approached it. The structure is marooned between the tracks of Stazione Termini and two tram tracks and the side is covered with graffiti. I had to stop and filter out the distractions of the neighborhood to appreciate the beauty of the façade. Three elegant arches provide entry into the portico, and dignified columns and three windows define the second level. All of this is surmounted by a pediment and cross making almost a thirst level above the central arch and front door to the church. The church was open, but when I entered I had to stop again and filter out distractions. The interior is cluttered with many objects of pious devotion.

A statue of Padre Pio resides in a chapel opposite a chapel

with a statue of the Blessed Mother and her halo of stars.

There were many other statues and candle stands scattered around the interior. However, this 75 seat church seems to be home to an active Christian community. While I was in the church people were coming in to prepare for a time of Eucharist adoration. The bulletin board gave evidence to a wide range of events for growing in faith. (This week’s schedule includes community prayer times as well as catechetical instruction for children and adults.)
The main altar and statue of Santa Bibiana are by Bernini. (The bodies of St Bibiana, her mother Dafrosa and her sister Demetria where discovered inside a 3rd century sarcophagus, and now rest inside an urn under the altar.)
The antique columns of the nave were taken from different ancient monuments when the 5th century church was built. Above the nave are 17th century frescoes showing the life and death (4th century) of Bibiana by the Florentine painter Agostino Ciampelli and Piero da Cortona.
There is a plaque under the portico that memorializes thousands of bodies that were found on the site during various excavations, evidence that this side of the Esqueline Hill was, in fact, a burial ground.

Reflection
The Sunday Gospel this week is Luke's account of the temptation of Jesus in the wilderness. The devil tried to distract Jesus with three different situations to prevent him from fulfilling his mission. Things around me often get me distracted from what I am supposed to do. Just as I had to stop and filter out distractions to see the wonderful things in the Church of Santa Bibiana, I need to continually remind myself to stop and filter out the many distractions that interrupt my ability to appreciate the goodness of God and to experience the full joy of human life.

Collect for the First Sunday in Lent
Almighty God, whose blessed Son was led by the Spirit to be
tempted by Satan: Come quickly to help us who are assaulted
by many temptations; and, as you know the weaknesses of
each of us, let each one find you mighty to save; through
Jesus Christ your Son our Lord, who lives and reigns with
you and the Holy Spirit, one God, now and for ever. Amen.
from The Book of Common Prayer

Ash Wednesday: Introduction to My Lenten Journey

I will be taking a journey during Lent to visit a church on each of the seven historic hills of Rome. I plan to reflect on the Sunday Gospel in the context of each church, and I will share what I experience on this blog. I hope you can journey with me as we make our way to Easter.

I begin on the Aventine Hill. Traditionally the Bishop of Rome comes to this hill on Ash Wednesday. He walks from the Benedictine church of San Anselmo to the Dominican church of Santa Sabina, where he presides over an Ash Wednesday liturgy. The Roman tradition for the distribution of ashes is to sprinkle ashes on the head, rather than making the sign of the cross with ashes on the forehead.

Branches from Palm Sunday are burned to make the ashes for Ash Wednesday. These palm trees are on the Aventine Hill.
The pope will go past the gate to the Knights of Malta as he walks between the two churches. Inside the gate (above) with its famous keyhole, is the Church of Santa Maria del Priorato.

This church is the only building actually designed and built by the 18th century artist and engraver Giovan Battista Piranesi. The inside of the church is lined with funerary monuments, fitting for Ash Wednesday, when we hear the words: "Remember that you are dust, and to dust you will return."

This is the sculpture that is part of the

memorial containing the ashes of Pieranasi.

Above: The nave of the church.

Below: Detail of the main altar, with a stature of St. Basil.

Collect for Ash Wednesday

Almighty and everlasting God, you hate nothing you have
made and forgive the sins of all who are penitent: Create and
make in us new and contrite hearts, that we, worthily
lamenting our sins and acknowledging our wretchedness,
may obtain of you, the God of all mercy, perfect remission
and forgiveness; through Jesus Christ our Lord, who lives
and reigns with you and the Holy Spirit, one God, for ever
and ever. Amen. From The Book of Common Prayer

Carnevale

Carnevale is the day before Ash Wednesday, the last day to "celebrate" before the season of Lent begins. I am happy to see that at school Carnevale is still a bigger festivity among the kids than Halloween. (Although, each year I have been here in Rome, there seems to be more and more things happening on October 31st!)

Here are a few pictures from the Carnevale celebration at Ambrit Rome International School. This is a Grade 1 class in their costumes.

The children from the Early Childhood division of the school parade through the atrium while older students stand above on the balconies throwing streamers.

Happy San Valentino

Today is Valentine's Day. I didn't make it to the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin to see the skull of St. Valentine.
But we did go to the Trattoria da Valentino for lunch after church.
In the evening we went to a performance of Bothanica by MOMIX. Fantastic!

A Snowy Day

Today it snowed in Rome. Yes, it really snowed. As my kids, Emily and Peter, returned to work at their schools in Jersey City and New York City after having two snow days, we went to to school in the snow!

Let the Games Begin

Tonight I joined Canadians at the Enoteca Antica, a wine bar near the Spanish Steps, to celebrate tomorrow's opening of the Vancouver Winter Olympic Games.

Here I am with Lisa and Grace, on my left and right,

Canadian colleagues from school.

An International School

I teach at Ambrit Rome International School. This year we have the flags of 75 nations hanging in the atrium, representing the birthplaces of our student body. The kids are really proud to see their flag on display. It is also a wonderful experience to be interacting with students and parents from around the world.